Kenji and Yuka…This may be what it would look like. At least for Kenji. He adores his cousin Yuka. She’s just the right age for him to still be able to play with, look up to, and be bossed around by without getting annoyed. In this pic we were on our way to the train station and then off to the restaurant that Yuka’s parents own — Mirumaru.

He also really adores my cousins (his first-cousins once-removed), Shinichiro (see pic Shin and Kenji fighting over beer )and Takiko (see pic Yuka, Takiko, and Kenji ).  When they come over he gets giddy with delight.  Seriously, he is the happiest boy alive when those 2 are around. It might help that Shinichiro always seems to have chocolate with him when he shows up, or that Takiko treats him like a prince who can do no wrong. Oh, how much we’ll miss everyone.

Game at the playground

Genevieve: Occasionally, Kenji and will take the train to a  park nearby Walter’s work and meet him for lunch. It’s gotten cold now, so we haven’t gone in a while, but the last time we did Kenji and I witnessed the most peculiar game. There was a group of Japanese school kids there from the adjacent public school, and after playing some rather vicious looking dodgeball, they moved on to a game which basically entailed the teachers running around after them with a huge thick paper paddle. The object of the game? To hit the kids with paddle. This of course caused a great deal of panic and excitement, but all in all most seemed to enjoy it. Hmmm…

Check out the kid in the black shirt and pants (center)

This playground was actually really nice, but you had to pay to get in

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The playgrounds here are filled with monkey bars and rickety see-saws, items that we enjoyed in our own youth, but have long since been removed from American playgrounds as they were deemed too dangerous. I brought this up in an earlier post (the poor condition of most playgrounds here), and my mom commented on how she had seen a documentary about a group of moms in Tokyo trying to get a new playground and the bureaucracy that they came up against. That’s one thing we’re definitely looking forward to upon returning home on the 31st–playgrounds! Arlington has so many wonderful playgrounds and all of them are practically new. We’re very lucky, although I guess that’s where those high taxes are going.

Check out the guy sleeping. I hope he moves the stuff from the windshield before he drives…Genevieve: I might have mentioned that we went on short trip to Korea in November to renew our visas. You can only be in Japan for 90 days on a tourist visa, and since we were unable to arrange anything different before we left we had to make the trip. Seoul, Korea is only an hour and a half flight from Haneda Airport in Tokyo, so the trip was quite painless. In fact, it was quite enjoyable!

Walter’s company put us up in a really nice hotel on the top floor in a very fancy 2-floor suite! Among other things, the room had a huge jacuzzi and lots of fresh fruit (see pic of Kenji with nashi (Asian pear).

 That asian pear was about as big as Kenji’s head. Check out the view from the 23rd floor of our suite!

Walking around old district of Seoul

Seoul is really interesting with tons of great food, interesting shopping (we went to the famous shopping street Insadong), and warm people. Although we were there for only 2 days, we really had a fun time.  I would love return again for longer next time!

…sometimes you get sick of Japanese food.

Mai Thai Restaurant in Ebisu, Tokyo

Tuk Tuk in front of Thai Rest

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This place (in Ebisu) had the most amazing Thai food. It completely hit the spot. They had a great display outside too–complete with Santa, Thai goddesses, and a tuk tuk.  Seems like I enjoy spicy food even more when I’m pregnant. Maybe that’s why Kenji’s loves his kimchi.

Oh, and if you’re out there and reading this, feel free to comment. We love to hear them, and it makes us feel as though people are actually reading our blog.

Kenji and a small car in Japan

Even the cars.

Soft Sembei closeup

Inside Nishiki with Japanese couple in kimonosGenevieve: After leaving Kiyomizu, Kenji and Walter went back to the ryokan for an afternoon nap and I met my mom and her friend, Tara, for a tour of Nishiki Market.  Nishiki is amazing, and a must-see for anyone interested in Japanese food. The narrow shopping arcade is 400 meters in length, with just over 100 vendors; although it seemed to be endless, as we were unable to make it through to the end in the 2 hrs we spent there. Among other items, I bought some soft warm sembei (Japanese rice crackers) topped with goma (sesame), shishimi (chili pepper), umeshiso (plum with shiso leaf), and ao nori (seaweed powder). Soft Sembei at Nishiki Market

We sampled tons of Kyoto tsukemono (pickles) which no kidding, were all delicious! While I was inside one of the pickle stores, a famous Japanese actress came in which caused a big commotion. I’d never heard of her though–apparently she’s in a ton of commercials.

We also saw beautiful matsutake mushrooms (see pic of my mom with mushrooms), Mom, Me, and Tara at NishikiJapanese sweets (see pic of Okashi (Japanese sweets)Tons of tsukemono (see pic of Pickle man and pickles) and tons of gorgeous fresh vegetables (like wasabi) and all sorts of fish I didn’t recognize. It really made me wish I had a kitchen and all of my cooking supplies back home.  My mom was able to take a few cooking classes though and was therefore able to use many of the ingredients we saw in Nishiki.

Toji antique marketOn Sunday we went to Toji to the Garakuta-ichi antique flea market that happens there on the first Sunday of each month. However, the markets held on the 21st of the month at Toji and the the 25th at Kitano-tenmangu Shrine are much more expansive (not only do they sell antiques but they sell new items as well). When I lived in Kyoto yrs ago, I would always go the market on the 25th–that’s where I found many vintage kimonos (many for $5 or less) and antique dishes.

This trip to the market proved to be less exciting, but was still very interesting. We went with my mom who had never been and therefore spent hrs puttering around (as one should) searching for treasures. Vintage kimonos at TojiHere are some pics:Kokeshi Dolls at Toshi

See more pics  Chopstick rests,  The Toji antique market, Dog on roof at Toji, Mom browsing at Toji

All in all, it was a really fun trip albeit a bit exhausting. One of the highlights was Walter’s and my first date out without Kenji. My mom came over and watched Kenji at the ryokan, while we went to this restaurant called A Womb. The food was as delicious as it was beautiful. It was kaiseki ryori at its best with an inventive and creative twist. The space was pretty cool too (made to invoke the feelings of being in a womb which the owner assumed must be a really good experience). We were the only patrons, which normally I don’t really like, but it actually made the experience more special. I wish I’d brought my camera so I could share some pics of the food and space.

Yamanote-senWalter:  Japanese culture is famous for its Kata – refined procedures that govern almost every part of life.  In part because of this cultural framework, it’s easy for Japanese to accept rules pertaining to social behaviors. The funny thing is, we see some of them being broken all the time.  These are great examples of the danger of making generalizations about any group of people.  As homogenous as Japanese society is, everyone is not the same. 

1)     1)  Cars drive on the left and people walk on the left.  This is the rule, but far too often, I’ve found people walking on the far right side of the side walk (their right / my left) staring you down with no where for you to go.  I was really surprised by this because it seems like such an easy rule to follow.  Then a pattern started to emerge:  it’s usually an old guy incredulous to your existence.  I`ve begun to realize that old guys can basically do whatever they want.

2)      Never blow your nose in public.  It’s almost the equivalent to farting in public for us.  OK, I’ve never actually seen anyone blow their nose in a real public place – for instance in a train station or on the streets – but there are plenty of people at work that blow their nose in the office.  Actually, it’s usually the old guy again.  Besides, what’s the alternative?

3)      Don’t eat in public places.  In the US, we like eat our Super Slurpies and power bars and cheeseburgers in our car, on the streets, on the train, etc..  In Japan: not on the street, not on the train, not in the rain, not…you get the idea.   Even if you buy a cup of coffee for take-out, they will hide it in a small paper bag so that you don’t offend anyone after you leave the shop.  Parks are the exception to this.  While on the way to work, I did see one guy walking down the street drinking from a can of coffee and holding a cigarette in the other hand.  One guy.  Plus me.  I eat all the time because my blood sugar plunges suddenly – especially when I’m agitated by rude behavior like eating in public.  Two guys in all of Tokyo and one is a gai-jin (foreign person).  P.S. I saw that same guy on the same street the other day and this time he had a can of coffee in one hand and 7-Eleven danish in the other. The nerve! 

4)      All Japanese men carry a handkerchief to dry their hands after using the rest room, but never to blow their nose.  Many public rest rooms and rest rooms in restaurants have no means at all for drying your hands.  This reminds me of a sign I saw in a restroom in Singapore.  Again, the restroom had no air dryer, paper towels or anything.  The sign read: “Please don’t shake your hands around causing water to fly all over the mirror and floor.”  An excellent example of both sides not understanding each other’s perspective.  I usually don’t carry a handkerchief.  I shake my hands around wildly and then stick my right hand under my left arm to dry it off in case I need to unexpectedly shake someone’s hand (which always seems to happen when my hands are wet).  I have seen Japanese men shake their hands around and walk out of the rest room too, so there.

5)      Don’t cross your legs at the knee or ankle when talking to someone.  I read this in a guidebook recently.  No one has ever brought this up with me.  I’ve seen people cross their legs before.  I don’t get it.  When I meet with customers I keep both feet firmly placed on the floor.  Not as easy as it sounds.  Try it for 2 hours, OK?  So, I asked Genevieve’s cousins about this and they confirmed that in business you shouldn’t do it, but it’s mostly old guys that would be offended.

   ** Double click on photo to enlarge **

Dogs must be teaches to be polite too6)      Japanese people are always polite.  When the ambulance comes down our street there is a guy yelling into the PA speaker in addition to the siren.  He’s saying something to the effect of:  “Please excuse us, we have an emergency and must use this street.  Very sorry.”  It’s no secret that Japan has a very polite society.  But, there are definite pockets of rudeness.  We know this pregnant woman that was forcibly elbowed in the stomach by a guy next to her on the train so he could, apparently, make room to read his newspaper.  She elbowed him back and he jumped up with a horrified look to change his seat.  There appears to be some basic taboo about appearing overtly pregnant in Japan, perhaps it’s too much of a  blatant expression of virility or sexuality.  So, apparently, people are freaked out by it.   There are plenty of examples of rudeness.  The old guys complain that the younger generation is becoming more rude, but why is it the old guys that seem to break all the other rules?

7)      A request is always met by a quick response.  See my post “The Gods Must Be Crazy.”  Odd numbers are good luck in Japan, so I had to end with seven.

In summary, old guys can do what they want and act offended when other’s don’t follow the rules.  As a foreigner visiting Japan, you will usually be forgiven for not understanding many of the rules here, but it’s always best to make an effort to increase your awareness of what’s considered polite.  Just don’t stress out about it too much.

CreapWell, Product of the Week has become more like Product of the Month.  One problem I have is that some stores have signs up not to take pictures and some items I don’t really care to buy.   For this one, the name speaks for itself.  I read this name as “creep” and suddenly radio-head is playing in my mind.  Technically, the Japanese pronunciation would be “Cray-ahp,” I think.  Sounds more like “crap.”  It’s some kind of non-dariy powder that you put in your coffee.  Best to stay away from such things since they are usually loaded with hydrogenated oil.  Especially if you “…want a perfect body..eeeee… want a perfect…..”

Kenji inside our room at the Ryokan in KyotoGenevieve: We took the shinkansen (bullet train) down to Kyoto last month for a small vacation. I personally love Kyoto, and would be happy as a clam to live there. Compared to Tokyo, the people seem more laid back, the city is more open and bicycle friendly, and I like the food better too. It helps a lot that I lived there for 6 months 10 yrs ago, so I’m familiar with the layout of the city. Kyoto is the old capital of Japan and is temple and shrine central. There are 2 main religions in Japan–buddhism and shintoism–and both are very well represented  in Kyoto. You could literally spend weeks just visiting shrines and temples, but it does get old after a while (esp when you have a 2 yr old), so we found a lot of other things to do as well.

Leaves at Konchi-inKonchi-in with me and moss gardenThe first day we took it fairly easy and checked out Nanzenji (see pics of Nanzenji: View of foliage from top floor of Sanmon (Gate of Nanzenji) Coming down VERY steep stairs of Sanmon (gate of Nanzenji) View from Sanmon Gate, View of Sanmon from the ground) a very well known Zen temple at the foot of Kyoto’s eastern hills. There are many smaller sub temples within the complex and we were lucky enough to visit one of these as well. Named Konchi-in, it has a beautiful moss and rock garden and some very old and beautiful buildings. Click here for pics of Steps at Konchi-in, Genevieve and Kenji at Konchi-in, Kenji at Konchi-in, Genevieve and Walter at Konchi-in, Walter and Kenji walking by tree roots.

We also went to one of my favorite streets in Kyoto, Teramachi (literally translates to temple street), which is not only lined with temples (hence the name) but is also home to many antique shops, tea shops, and specialty stores (see pic: One of the temples along Teramachi). One of those stores is this amazing paper shop where I used to spend wads of cash on beautiful washi (handmade paper) to line books that I made along with paper for printing woodblocks on. Next store to the paper shop is one of the most famous tea shops in Japan, Ippodo. Unfortunately, formal tea shops and Kenji don’t mix, so we weren’t able to go inside. But my mother (who studies chado/japanese tea ceremony) checked it out and enjoyed a bowl of tea there with her friend who lives in Kyoto. Here are some pics my mom took at the shop when she went: Mom in front of Ippodo,Hostess making tea in Ippodo.

A trip to Kyoto isn’t complete without visiting Kiyomizudera, which is perched on the side of a mountain with a gorgeous view of Kyoto. It is overwhelmed with tourists and schoolchildren (almost all Japanese have been there for a school trip–see pic with sea of yellow hats in the background) most of the time, but it’s truly worth battling the crowds to see this magnificent temple. We ate a lovely lunch of Yudofu (hot boiled tofu) and kitsune* udon (thick wheat noodles with aburage or fried seasoned tofu skin). Japanese food can be so simple and satisfying…I love it! Click the following for some pics of Kiyomzidera: Walter and Kenji at steps to temple, Close-up of Kiyomizudera building, Kenji at water basin, Genevieve and Kenji with main Kiyomizu temple in background, Foliage and pagoda at Kiyomizu, Enjoying lunch at Kiyomizu, My handsome hubby at lunchtimeHealing waterfall at Kiyomizu, Kenji giving coins to Monks.

*note: Kitsune means fox. People believed foxes have supernational power and like aburage.

Part 2 of this post will come later since I’m tired and this post is already getting too long.

Enjoying Food at my cousin’s restaurant in Tokyo, MirumaruGenevieve: Recently I’ve been kicking around other blogs to see what I could find on Japanese cooking. Turns out there are a ton of really great blogs out there filled with helpful information and great recipes.

Here’s a short list:

Yakusoku’s home cooking a really charming site featuring food and menus by a Japanese woman, translated by her daughter.

Obachan’s kitchen written by an American living in Japan. She does interesting east meets west dishes.

Takoyaki (Octopus balls) at MirumaruSushiday: Sushi, sushi and more sushi. 

Blue Lotus: A Canadian living in Tokyo. I wish she wrote her recipes down! But her food descriptions are nice.

Bento: I just love this Japanese girl’s pics and the fact that she makes these beautiful bento boxes for herself to eat.

Sake and food at my cousin’s restaurantBento.com: This site is great. Not only are there recipes, but there are also restaurant reviews, food features, lists of places to visit, you name it.

Dr. Stonieloves Bewildered Beast: The writer is vegan and has all sorts of delectable sounding recipes.

Oh and while I’m at it, I found this cool site on Miso (if you haven’t eaten it, you should try it–it’s really simple to make and delicious!)

Eating typical Korean food in SeoulOh and I also can’t leave out My Korean Kitchen a blog on Korean and Korean fusion food–on a recent trip to Korea in November, I was in heaven! I love, love Korean food! They serve pickles with everything and they use a TON of garlic. Apparently, Walter could smell it on random people’s skin when we were walking around Seoul. I think I had eaten too much of it myself to have noticed.  Another good thing is that Kenji loves spicy food–including kimchi!