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Meiji Milk Co., Tokyo
Walter: It’s been almost a year since we’ve returned from Tokyo, but I started writing this one before I had left. So, Genevieve thought it might be interesting if I write about my work. Of course I really can’t tell you too much about my job or company, but I can tell you a bit about my walk to work (I don’t know if this is interesting, but it’s been one of the greatest simple pleasures in being here) and a few other tid-bits. My walk is typically a once per week adventure of about 25 – 30minutes. I ‘m still doing it now in January 2008. This is a random photo of a building on the way to work (Meji Milk Company). I find this one interesting because it seems like something of a relic among the mixed architecture and much newer development on the main roads that I walk.
Most days I take the train to work – about a 20 -25 minute commute overall including walking to and from the stations on both ends. When you take the train, you spend at least 5 minutes walking in and out of the ground. So even though the train ride itself is not long, it takes almost as long as walking. I suppose that when it’s cold, it’s more comfortable than walking, except that in the morning you are packed in like sardines, or maybe bonito, if you prefer. Certain trains are impossibly full, but it’s hard to predict which ones. The proper etiquette for getting on full train seems to be: 1) step into the train normally, 2) turn around with your back facing the other riders, 3) slowly walk backwards so as to compress the crowd with your back and butt. Don’t make eye contact. When getting off the train you are subject to the laws of physics. You behave more like part of a fluid than an individual. The doors open and the force of the fluid pushes you off the train. If you are standing near the door, you must get off whether it is your stop or not. Then you simply stand aside and reboard before the musical chimes tell you that it’s time to go.
After I arrive at Shiba Koen station and come up out of the ground, I walk by this very new little shrine on a hill (first picture). At new years time, you’re supposed to go to a shrine or temple and say a little “wish” for the coming year – a wish for good healthy, prosperity, happiness – the usual stuff. I neglected to do this when we went to one of the biggest shrines in Tokyo (Meji jinku), so I finally stopped at this little shrine on my way to work and did my thing. After passing this shrine, I usually go through some small back alleys (the same place where I saw the one and only Japanese guy in Tokyo actually eating in the street) and past another very small and much older neighborhood shrine. Whenever I pass it, I always find it ironic that the cat and dog statues in front are encased in green industrial chicken wire cages to protect them from bird poop or something. So to keep them beautiful, they are made ugly or at least obscured by their little cages. It kind of reminds me of all the grand churches in Europe that are covered with scaffolding for 5 years so that they can wash off the acid rain damage.
It also reminds me, albiet less, of the Zen concept that to own something creates a burden. Once you aquire stuff and that stuff has value, you need to spend energy to protect it from damage, theft, decay…. The more valuable it is, the more energy you need to spend (waste?). To rid your self of such stuff or to avoid aquiring it to begin with liberates you from this burden. In the end it is a loosing battle because everything is temporary. OK, now back to work and making money so that we can aquire stuff…
A well-protected shrine cat (or maybe it's a fox, but who can tell with the cage around it)
I worked in the Mita Kokusai Building in central Tokyo
Finally, I arrive at the Mita Kokusai Building, a twenty-three-or-so-floor office complex near Tokyo Tower. To get this picture of Tokyo Tower, I walked out in the middle of the road right in front of our office on a fine Saturday in October. Our office is pretty typical of Japanese companies. There are almost no individual offices with doors and there are no cubicles; just one large room with managers sitting at open desks at the end of a row of back-to-back desks for the “workers.” Managers get arm rests on their chairs and workers don’t. Also, at least in our company, Managers sit furthest from the door – this considered the most respected position. For instance, if you are holding a meeting, the guests (in a conference room or restaurant…) would sit furthest from the door even if they are not the customer.
So when I arrived on my first day of work, I was shown to “Walter’s Corner” – a semi-cubical like area with a rather larger modular desk and PC in the corner (so I am essentially facing into the corner) right next to the door. So, even though I am a manager and DO have arm rests on my chair, I’m not sure what mixed message I am getting here. Anyway, space is at a premium and this was probably the only reasonable option since they couldn’t put me at one of the worker’s desks. I actually like the set-up fine since I can focus and it’s easy to shut out the Japanese office banter since I don’t understand most of it except the long endings to phone calls…. Hai, hai, hai, hai! Yuroshiku, agrigatooooooooooooo!
Most people arrive between 8 and 8:30, well before the Westminster chimes plays over a loudspeaker to signify that you best start working now. At lunch, another tone plays and the entire office stands up at once and leaves to get their food. At 5:15, the chimes play again to signify, I assume, the official end of work, although this has nothing to do with reality. The only person that sometimes leaves at this point is the secretary. As far as I can tell, 50% of the staff are there until 7:00. A handful of people go up to the cafeteria to watch TV or have a beer at about 6 or 6:30 and there are a good number of people still working after 8:00 PM despite typical train commutes of 90 minutes. I think this explains the abundance of noodle shops in train stations as well as the availability of relatively high-quality prepared foods at the ubiquitous 7-Elevens. The only thing left to do is sleep.
Tokyo tower seen from the road in front of my office
There are various office rituals and norms, many of which seem mundane to me now, so I’m not sure what might interest you. One that I did not follow is the use of office sandals. Many men arrive at the office and go to a little locker area in the back. Here they can hang their coats and trade their dress shoes for some form of indoor sandals. I’ve seen everything from heavy leather things to something that looks like one step up from plastic shower sandals. Always worn with socks. A bit odd to see matched with a business suit, but comfort trumps. Maybe we should start this trend in the US?
