Onsen Ryokan 温泉旅館

Genevieve:As I mentioned in my post on Yamagata, we had the most delightful experience at a Japanese Hotspring Inn (Onsen Ryokan) there. Yamagata is famous for its hotsprings, so I had made sure that this would be part of our agenda. It’s one of those experiences that you definitely don’t want to miss if you ever have the opportunity. Of course some are nicer than others, and there really is quite a range both in price and feel. Some can be really utilitarian, while others are very natural and often feature outside baths.  We were lucky to stay in the latter, at a place called Matsunoyu.

Our room had its own private hotspring bath with skylight, and was traditional, in that it featured tatami mats and low tables. A yukata (cotton robe) was provided for each of us (even Kenji), along with all of the toiletries we would need, including a small souvenir towel to be used in the bath.  My mom and I wrapped these around our heads as we sat in the hot baths after washing ourselves down.  Since I’m pregnant I didn’t stay in the bath for long since it seemed pretty hot, but it was still really enjoyable and relaxing.

From the accommodations to the food, everything was incredible. The food was not only delicious, but probably some of the most beautifully presented that I’ve ever had. On the plate in the photo, you can see just a portion of our dinner there: salmon roe with fresh lime, walnuts and ginko nuts, saikyo miso fish, marinated mushrooms with chrysanthemum petals, raw egg with black roe and edible flowers, and kombu with herring roe. In the photo above with my mom and Walter, you can see tuna and other assorted sashimi (raw fish) on the yellow plate, along with an udon nabe pot with fresh vegetables for each of us.

Breakfast was also enjoyable, although the salad featured mayonnaise, which if you know Walter, you know that he despises the stuff.  We had our own special room and attendant for all of the meals (which was arranged by my Uncle), so the service was impeccable. Although the one thing that I’ve noticed is that the Japanese don’t drink nearly as much as we do. And when they do drink, it often consist of caffeine. I’ve found myself often longing for a simple glass of water. Honestly, I drink more than anyone I know here.

 

Here are some additional photos of the ryokan…sorry mom for the not-so-flattering photo. It really does help capture the experience though, don’t you think? At least you don’t have rice on your chin like Kenjiroo. Click here for a pic of Walter and Kenji at breakfast: Walter feeding Kenji breakfast

That evening, snow was still falling outside as we entered the steam filled baths. It was quite peaceful.

It was Thanksgiving when we stayed there, but all of us were so overwhelmed by the experience that we forgot the holiday somehow. But it was the perfect way to celebrate it, with family and great food. And hey, no clean-up!